Sunday, 25 September 2011

Paris - After dark

Le Royal Monceau (see hotels below)

Where? Paris, France
When? I've been to Paris more times than I can remember, the first time officially was in my mother's tummy (maybe why I like French food so much!), through to the many work trips, fashion weeks and shoots I've been on over the past few years. 
Best time to go? I love Paris in the summer when the bars and restaurants spill out into the streets and the atmosphere is buzzing. Winter in Paris is beautiful too, the snow filled streets are so romantic.
Local Knowledge? Thanks to Cecille Maillot, freelance stylist born and lives in Paris and Philippa Kaye, a friend and colleague from Elle with a penchant for Paris.
Philippa's top tip? See Paris from the back of a motorbike, it's even more beautiful and exciting from there.

Hotel Ritz
15 Place Vendome
The Hemingway Bar at The Ritz is the quintessential Parisian establishment. The best place in town for a pre-dinner aperitif, but the bar is buzzing till the early hours. The cocktails are incredible (they aught to be at 30 euros each!) and come adorned with flowers. Buy enough and you can go home with a bouquet.

golden swan taps at The Ritz
cocktails at The Hemingway Bar
Hotel du Nord
102 quai de Jemmapes
Where the 1938 film of the same name was shot, Hotel du Nord is set in an idyllic spot overlooking the Canal Saint Martin. After dinner indulge in exotic cocktails and dance to live swing and jazz with the chic crowd.

Dinner at Derrie're
69 Rue des Gravilliers

Pick from the lounge boudoir or bedroom in which to eat dinner. The food is simple, delicious, french cuisine. Bon appetite.

The living room at Derriere

91 Boulevard Beaumarchais
75003 Paris

Italian restaurant from the same couple behind concept store Merci (get it? see shopping). This shabby chic bar/restaurant is the eatery of choice for the fashion set. The food? Delicious pizza and you have to try out some of the 52 martini cocktails on the menu.

taxidermy at Grazie
Eat al fresco in the courtyard at Hotel Coste
Hotel Coste
239 rue St-Honore'
This is a firm fashion favourite in the first arrondissement and around the corner from the Ritz. Arrive pre  or post dinner, the two bars are packed till the early hours. The first thing you notice as you walk in is the spiced perfume scented air, pulsating house music and the seductive lighting. Once your eyes adjust to the darkness, you'll slowly notice that a lot of the clientele look familiar, The Coste is the one of the biggest celeb hang outs in town.

The Coste
Hotel Amour
8 Rue Navarin
Over in the 9th,  Hotel Amour is the achingly hip hang out of the Parisian fashion and music scene. Be content with hanging out at the bar here, you're unlikely to get any sleep.

Hotel Amour

Le Dauphin
131 Avenue Parmentier
75011 Paris

From the owners of Chataubriand only a cooler and more relaxed establishment. It's the grown up choice of the moment on the Parisian food scene. Chic minimal marble interior. The crowd? Hipsters, foodies and bobos.

After Dark - Clubs

If you still have energy to party after visiting all the best bars in town, then here are the coolest clubs to head to. Don't turn up earlier than 1am though, the party will have barely started.

142 Rue de Monmartre

The latest fixture to Paris club scene is Silencio members night club. The brain child of film director David Lynch, Silencio houses a cinema, library, stage, night club and bar all in one. The crowd? Paris' art, film and fashion set.

bar at Silencio
Le Baron
6 Avenue Marceau
Exclusive club, wall to wall beautiful people from VIP's to actors, models and hipsters. Can be tricky to get in but its worth the blag.

Le Baron

Le Montana
28 rue Saint-Benoit

Crazy club kid Andre (fashion folk will recognise him from fashion week, you know the 6 foot 4 guy in the dress with a beard!) and Purple Magazines Olivier Zahm's latest hang out. Le montana has been hyped as the studio 54 for the 21st century.

Le Montana

After Dark - Sleeping
Where to stay
I love the Hotel Coste and Hotel Amour (I only recommend Amour if you're in Paris to party!) but my favourite place to actually get a nights sleep is:

Hotel Particulier Montmartre
Pavillon D
23 Avenue Junot

Hotel Particulier Monmartre
And if you're willing to blow the budget check out:

The Royal Monceau
37 Avenue Hoche
75008 Paris

 Recently refurbished, Philippe Stark's interior designed swank palace. It's a design dream.

Bon nuit.

Paris - Shopping, Clignancourt Market

Clignancourt Market
18th arrondissement, Saturday and Sunday all day.
Arrive early for the best bargains, a lot of stalls close at midday and I say stalls in loosest sense, many of them are in fact beautifully merchandised shops. Clignancourt is split into 15-20 different markets over seven hectares. It is impossible to cover the entire area in a day, but the best areas are Marche' Surpette and Marche' Paul Bert. Best for: furniture, architectural selvedge, vintage clothing and home-wares. There are a few fashion specialty stalls too, my favourites are:

Les Marveilles de Babellou
Marche' Paul Bert 
Stand 13 Alle'e 1
Clignancourt Market
T: 06-80-63-26-89

Beautifully restored vintage evening gowns, beaded flapper dresses, 80's Chanel jewellery and 60's Balenciaga pieces.

Le Monde Du Voyage
Marche' Serpette
110 Rue Des Rosiers
Alle'e 3 Stand 15
93400 Saint-Ouen
Clignancourt Market

Inside Clignancourts array of treasure trove aisles you'll find this stand selling restored vintage Hermes and Vuitton trunks and bags.

Paris packing - what to wear when you're there

Weekend Wardrobe
Look 1: Clignancourt market and Le Marais
Anti clockwise from left: Breton top – Day Birger et Mikkleson Coral bag – Mulberry fatima's hand necklace – Zoe & Morgan Watch – GC Watches Bracelet – Swarovski Skirt – Brogues – Church's Nail polish – Chanel Beige Etale Ipad 2 – Apple Ipad case – Prada Jacket – Whistles

Look 2: Rue Saint Honore and Saint Germain
Anti clockwise from left: Coat – Rag and Bone Bag – vintage from Vancouver, Vintage sunglasses – Dior, Clignancourt Market (see shopping) Nail polish – Chanel particuliere Necklace – Zoe and Morgan  Lipstick – Revlon fire and ice Boots – Bertie Dress – H&M

Look 3: After Dark. Chanelling Emanuelle Alt (only on a budget!)
Anti clockwise from left: Tux jacket – Zara Sunglasses – Rayban Bag – vintage see above, necklace – Satya Leather trousers – Acne blackberry bold Prada Infusion d'Iris perfume Nail Polish – Chanel   lipstick– Rimmel diva red friendship bracelets – Links of London and Daisy watch – GC Watches t-shirt – Acne

Paris - Shopping, Rue St Honore and the Palais Royale

This is a little bit of an obvious choice for Parisian shopping areas, it's the equivalent of Bond Street in London. If designer brands are you bag then head to the 1st for Balenciaga, Chanel, Valentino and the like. Also in this area are:

Maison Martin Margiela
25 bis, Rue de Montpensier
75001 PARIS
Tel: 33 1 401 50755

And Didier Ludot, the purveyor of the most exquisite vintage couture dresses. If you're looking for unique pristine pieces (and I mean 1920's Chanel or 1940's Dior) this is the place. The prices are high and the staff are little snotty unless you arrive dressed head to toe in couture, good luck!

Didier Ludot
20-24 Galerie de Montpensier
Jardin du Palais Royal
75001 Paris
Didier Ludot

213 rue St Honore
75001 Paris

To anyone in the fashion industry you've probably been here a million times but Collette is the ultimate Parisian lifestyle concept store. Exhibiting everything that's uber cool from the latest music, magazines, fashion and art right down to the exact bottled water you should be drinking (pick from 46 brands). The window merchandising is an ever changing mirror of everything which is a la mode, a must for any design and fashion lovers.

Street-style on Rue St Honore

Paris - Shopping - Deyrolle

46 rue du Bac
75007 Paris

Just around the corner from the Gainsbourg house is the weird and wonderful world of Deyrolle. It may not be the most obvious place to visit in Paris but the taxidermy curiosities are fascinating and inspiring. Worth a visit if you're in the area.